The calm before the storm of springtime gardening is a golden opportunity for smart gardeners. Most of your neighbors will be boxing their tools for the season. But you can keep your hand in the soil and get a jump on their spring gardens so your patches will be better than the rest. The cool soil at this time of year means no heat stress and provides a long growing season for the roots of your plants. Stay tuned for #15 on what to plant to create a fragrant, walkable garden from a boring space to a fragrant, walkable garden.

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Fall Planting Advantages: October Edition

The secret is in soil temperature and root growth. Even though air temperatures fall, soil temperatures fall much slower. This is good for root development in the early stages, as there isn't summer heat stress for the surface of the soil. Plants actually build underground structures in preparation for the first growth challenge months beforehand. It's like giving a head start to the plants while they are sleeping. In the spring, they are already established and ready to thrive.

Planting in the spring means that plants have to battle heat stress, develop new roots, fight flowers, and develop new flowers. On the other hand, fall planting only requires plants to develop roots. However, due to the increase in root development from fall planted plants vs spring planted, the fall planted plants will have a better time with drought, develop better, and bloom faster. Setting up a fall planted garden means you're setting up for success.

1. Garlic – The Underground Gold Mine

Before the ground freezes, plant single cloves of garlic with the points facing up 2 – 3 inches deep and 4 – 6 inches apart. These should be planted 6 inches apart. Depending on the climate, you’ll want to choose a hardneck or softneck variety. If you live in a cold climate (zones 5 and colder) choose hardneck varieties, and in warmer areas choose softneck. Hardneck varieties have larger, but fewer cloves and only store for 3-4 months while softneck varieties produce more cloves per head and store for 6-8 months. Garlic is one of the best crops to grow. Each head bought for $3 produces 8-12 new heads by July. With costs being low, garlic will bring in great profits. When planting, be sure to place the flat basal side down.

2. Tulip Bulbs – Spring's First Stars

Check the soil temperature before planting your bulbs. This should be in the range of 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit. Generally, this occurs around mid-October. You can check it with an inexpensive soil thermometer that goes 6 inches deep. Once you've checked that it is the proper temperature, you can plant the bulbs. It is recommended to plant the bulbs about 6-8 inches deep, which is about three times their size. This will protect them from frost heaving and won't be dug up as easily by squirrels. For the biggest and strongest flora, add bone meal to the hole when planting the bulbs. For the best and most natural look, plant in groups of odd numbers (5, 7, or 9).

3. Daffodils – Beautiful Multipliers

These daffodils are the best spring bulbs in the business. With zero effort from you, they will create larger displays every single year. For best results, plant these bulbs 6 inches deep in clusters of 7 to 9. They are completely protected from deer and rodents because the bulbs contain toxic alkaloids that will be avoided by the animals. Unlike tulips, daffodils will bloom reliably for years and years, and will outlast tulips. Plant them once to have daffodils for a long time. They truly are the best spring bulbs to just set and forget!

4. Iris – The Theatrical Artists

When you plant in fall, the rhizomes create roots before the winter dormancy. This results in stronger blooms the following year. Plant shallow. The top of the rhizome can be slightly exposed as covering them too deep can cause them to rot. Space rhizomes 12-18 inches apart to allow growth and air circulation. They will reward you with wonderful flowers of different colors and also sword-like foliage which adds to the structure of your garden all year. The Bearded Iris is great for beginners as it does well in full sun and well-drained soil.

5. Peonies – The Century Plants

Just like some of the historic gardens from the 1800s that bloom with peonies, if you plant them now you'll have over a century of blooms ahead. Eyes (the blooming buds) should be positioned 1-2 inches below the surface of the soil; positioning them deeper will cause years of delays in flowering, or they may never bloom at all. This is the number one issue to be cautious about and be sure to measure. Peonies do not like being moved once they are planted. You will need to choose your location wisely because once they are moved they can take many years to able to be moved again, if ever. Peonies will need full sunlight, soil that drains well, and room to span out to 3-4 feet wide. Once established you will have to wait for peonies to be able to produce a plethora of blooms that can be the size of dinner plates.

6. Spinach – The Champion of Cold Weather

You can direct seed your fall spinach until 6-8 weeks before the ground freezes over. Spinach is one of the first vegetables that can be planted in the fall. Interestingly, the sugars in the spinach make fall-grown varieties a bit sweeter than those grown in the spring. This is a result of the cold temperatures. Along with other natural antifreeze mechanisms, they provide a protective layer of sugars around the spinach plant. Plant your seeds between 1 inch and 1.5 inches apart in rows that are no more than 1 foot wide. As seedlings emerge from the soil, you should thin them out so that there is a space of 3-4 inches between them. In a lot of climates, with the protection of row covers, harvests will be extended into winter. In growing zones of 7 and higher, this means that you are able to harvest your spinach in the winter. Varieties that are particularly good to choose from include 'Bloomsdale' and 'Winter Bloomsdale' as these spinach varieties are known to be very productive and hardy.

7. The Soil Builder – Winter Rye Cover Crop

Spread seeds across your garden beds at a distance of 2-3 pounds per 1,000 square feet, then rake it lightly. Winter rye will keep your soil from eroding, and it will also suppress weeds, and add a great deal of organic matter when it gets tilled under in spring. The deep roots of winter rye will break up compacted soil and scavange winter nutrients that would otherwise leach away. One bag of seed costs less than $15. and it will cover 1,000 square feet. This makes it one of the most cost effective soil improvement methods. In early spring, till or mow the winter rye before it goes to seed, and let it decompose for 2-3 weeks before you plant.

8. Shallots – The Gourmet Secret

Plant single bulbs, pointed end up, 4-6 inches apart. Make sure to keep rows 12 inches apart. Each shallot will multiply into 6-10 new bulbs by summer. This gives you an incredible return on investment. They are milder and sweeter than typical onions, and have a touch of garlic flavor. This makes them a favorite among Chefs for vinaigrettes and sauces. Compared to garlic, shallots actually have a better shelf life. You can store them in a cool, dry place with good air circulation for 6-8 months. Plant them 4-6 weeks before your first hard frost to allow time for root development before the winter dormancy period.

9. Pansies – The Frost Dancers

These happy faces thrive in winter temperatures, down to 20°F, and some varieties even go colder. They should be planted in well-drained soil and in full-sun to part-shade. Space them 6-8 inches apart. To enjoy months of color, depending on your climate. In zones 6 and warmer, pansies often bloom through winter. They even continue to bloom from fall to spring heat, so deadhead regularly to keep the flowers coming. They are ideal for containers, window boxes, and even front borders where you can enjoy their happy faces up close.

10. Violas – Pansy's Tiny Cousins

Violas are cold hardy plants that endure the cold as low as 10 degrees F. Once the weather warms, violas are one of the first plants to bloom. Unlike pansies, violas have a more soft natural appearance instead of bright and bold. Their flowers work great in hanging baskets, borders, and containers. Additionally, violas self-seed and create a lovely surprise for gardeners who appreciate spontaneous moments in their garden. Violas have flowers that come in a wide variety of colors including: yellow, purple, and other mixtures. When planting for a carpet of color, space violas 4 to 6 inches apart.

11. Ornamental Cabbage and Kale

As the weather gets colder, their stunning colors deepen and become more vivid shades of purple, pink, and white. While they can technically be eaten, they are grown for their looks rather than their taste, and the leaves are much tougher than those of edible varieties. These plants can survive frosts and snow and will often look their best when they are covered with a little bit of snow or frost – in fact they will look great right up until the weather is below 20°F. They will create a beautiful display in your fall containers as most other annuals will be done for the season, and they will look great throughout the holidays. To achieve the best results, plant them 12-15 inches apart, as they can grow quite large (12- 18 inches) across.

12. Clover Cover Crop – The Nitrogen Fixing Crop

Crimson clover will give you free fertilizer for your garden because it has a special relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria that adds nitrogen to the soil. Plus, it will attract all the right pollinators because its spring flowers are a stunning red. If you want to plant it, you can seed it anywhere from 1-2 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You should do this 6-8 weeks before the frost because they need good seed to soil contact, which means you will need to rake it in to cover the seeds. If the clover has started to set seed, mow it first before it goes to seed so it doesn't spread everywhere, or you can till it in the spring to add the organic matter and nitrogen to your garden beds. This cover crop is perfect for vegetable gardens where you want to increase the fertility of the soil.

13. Aloe Vera – A Natural Healer

If you want to grow aloe Vera winter containers you can do it if you have a sunny south-facing window that gets 6 hours of bright light. Use a potting mix designed for cacti and succulents to keep the roots from rotting, and be sure your pots have drainage holes. Water is needed only every 2-3 weeks—less in the winter when the plant's growth stops. The soil should dry out completely before watering again. You can harvest the gel from the outer leaves and apply it to minor cuts, burns, as well as for skin care. Aloe is also super easy to care for and will grow offsets (baby plants) that you can separate and give away.

14. Sedum Varieties – Masters of Surviving Drought

These succulents will be able to settle in their new homes and start building roots before they go dormant for the winter. This means more impressive plants come springtime. Come springtime, the plants return even bigger. They also provide critical nectar for butterflies and pollinators that are migrating and are in need of food. During this time, there are not as many flowers blooming. The ‘Autumn Joy’ variety is the most well-known type. The flower heads will change colors throughout the season. They start as a light pink color and by the end are a dark rusty color. Sedum should be planted in direct sunlight and in soil that drains well. Once they are established, you will not need to water them again. They do perfectly in low maintenance areas, which makes them great for busy people.

15. Creeping Thyme – The Living Carpet

Imagine walking through your garden, smelling the herbal scents of a gentle groundcover that releases it's fragrance when stepped on. The plant is great at scenting your garden, and it requires little to no maintenance. In fact, it grows in the worst soil, needs no water after it is established, and will bloom tiny flowers, which are a favourite of bees, in late spring early summer. This wonderful plant is ideal to put between stepping stones, where little traffic is expected, and it is great for rock walls and over the edges of rock gardens. For best results, space the starter plants 6-9 inches apart They will form a tight mat within a season. Creeping thyme is also great for areas with a bit of foot traffic and stays a vibrant green in winter.

October Planting Success Tips

After planting, water thoroughly to settle soil around the roots and to get rid of air pockets. Then, as it cools down, water less often. Plants put in the fall use a lot less water than those put in the spring, as the cool weather means slower evaporation, and the plants are not actively growing. Apply 2-3 inches of shredded bark or compost as mulch around your plants, but be sure to keep the mulch 2-3 inches away from the crowns, stems, and any areas where bulbs are planted to prevent rot. You will forget where the plants are by spring so place stakes or labels to mark them. This is especially true for bulbs that leave no trace above ground.

Timing Your October Plantings

Not everything is planted at once. Bulbs such as tulips and daffodils need to be planted in colder soil (40-50°F), so you should wait until the end of October or even the beginning of November in warmer zones. A soil thermometer is a great investment as you can test the temperature of the soil. This is a very easy and inexpensive way to check if it is time to plant. If the air temperature is getting colder, garlic and shallots can be planted in the mid to late October range in many areas. Perennial plants need to be planted at least 6 weeks before the first hard frost if they need to become rooted before the ground freezes. Based on your USDA Hardiness zone, you should look at your frost date and time everything from there.

If your planting zone is 6 or higher, you can plant all the way into November. However, if your planting zone is 4 or lower, you should aim to have your plants in the ground between early and mid-October so the roots have enough time to develop before winter and freeze. Additionally, remember that nursery container grown perennials can be planted later than bare-root perennials because the roots are already established. Younger and smaller plants will always do better if you get them planted before winter sets in so they have more time to create roots for your plants to be successful come spring.

Avoid These Mistakes When Planting in October

Planting bulbs too shallow is the biggest mistake. Shallow-planted bulbs can be dislodged and dug up by critters, as well as frost-heaved. This is where winter freeze-thaw cycles push bulbs out of the ground. Follow the three-times-the-size-of-the-bulb rule. Overwatering as temperatures drop is another common error. After planting, just give the soil enough moisture to keep the bulbs from going into a state of rest (which can be caused by oxygen deprivation). Most of the soil moisture will be provided by winter snows, so plan to skip watering unless you experience a drought.

Do not fertilize your fall plantings with high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they encourage the growth of new tender shoots that will be destroyed by frost. Use instead bone meal or bulb fertilizers that have a higher middle number (higher in phosphorus) to encourage root growth. Avoid disturbing your plantings when the ground starts to freeze – walking on frozen soil will compact it and may be damaging to shallow roots. Finally, do try and control the urge to cut your perennials back too early. Wait until it's been several hard frosts and the plants have gone completely dormant. Premature cutting will stimulate new growth that will not survive the winter.

how to safeguard plants planted in october

When the soil has completely frozen and is no longer likely to thaw, spread 2-4 inches of mulch on top of your bulb beds. This will prevent bulbs from being pushed to the surface by freeze-thaw cycles. Shredded leaves, straw, or pine needles work well for this. On perennials, after a number of hard frosts, wait to mulch until then as early mulching may attract rodents looking for a warm winter nesting site. Your goal is to keep the soil consistently frozen, not to keep it warm. In the spring, as you see shoots emerging, gradually remove mulch to help warm the soil.

In winter zones 5 and colder, newly planted perennials can have added protection from winter evergreen boughs or straw. These materials will allow for air circulation and moisture build-up. When using outdoor container plants, wrap pots in bubble wrap or burlap to insulate the roots from freezing. The best insulating option is to sink the container up to the rim in soil or group containers in a sheltered area and protect with mulch or leaves.

Difference All the Makes Preparation Soil

Take a few moments to ensure that your soil is ready before planting anything in October. Autumn is actually the best time to enhance soil because needed changes have all season to decompose and combine. For best results, amend your soil with 2-3 inches of compost to your planting beds to enhance drainage and add nutrients to the soil. When it comes to bulbs, excellent drainage is imperative! Over the winter, bulbs will rot in wet soil. If you have heavy clay soil, think about creating raised beds, or mounding soil to improve drainage. When working with heavy soil, adding coarse sand or perlite will improve soil structure.

If you haven't tested your soil pH recently, do it now. Most of these October plantings prefer soil that is slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-7.0). Bulbs have particular sensitivities to extremes in pH. If your soil is too acidic, add lime as indicated by your soil test. If your soil is too alkaline, adding sulfur will lower the pH, but it takes time to work, so fall application is best. This gives the amendments time to adjust the pH before spring growth starts. Finally, clear weeds and debris from the planting areas; clean beds help prevent weeds and pests.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the ground frozen? No, soil should be workable so you can plant bulbs. If you’ve missed your window, you do have a few options. Place the bulbs in a container with drainage holes and place them in an unheated garage or shed. The bulbs need a cold period (between 35-45°F) for 12-14 weeks, then you can transplant the bulbs in the spring. It is possible they won’t bloom the first year, but they will establish and bloom in the years afterwards. Instead, some garden centers will sell bulbs that have been prechilled in the spring for late planting.

So, what is too late for planting in October? For perennials, it is best to finish planting about six weeks before the first hard frost to give the roots time to establish themselves. You can plant bulbs up until the ground freezes as they need the cold to trigger blooming. Some zone 7 gardeners even successfully plant bulbs in December and as far in January as the soil is workable. If you can dig a hole, you can plant bulbs. They are forgiving.

If I have just finished planting in October and I expect rain, should I still water the plants? Yes, regardless of the weather, you should always complete an initial first watering. This first watering anchors the soil around the newly established roots, removes air pockets, and provides the best contact between the roots and soil. Once the first watering is done, if you are not in a drought, the natural rainfall is generally enough. Because the plants are not actively growing and there is for less evaporation during the fall than in the spring, the amount of water needed for new fall transplants is much less than for new spring transplants.

Should I fertilize when planting in October? For bulbs and perennials, it is best to use bone meal or bulb fertilizer. Mix it with soil in your planting hole, but only use as much as recommended. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers (first number in the N-P-K ratio is the highest) as they will promote leafy growth. The goal is to develop the roots, not the tops. Also, nitrogen fertilizers can stimulate soft new growth that will get killed by frost, and this can weaken or even kill the plant. You need phosphorus (the middle number) to support root growth, which is what you want.

Will planting my flowers attract rodents? Yes, squirrels and chipmunks will wreak havoc on your tulip bulbs. Most other bulbs like daffodils, alliums, and fritillarias are safe to plant as their bulbs have rodent repellents, so you won’t have to worry about those being dug up. Tulip bulbs will need to be covered with wire for a month after putting them in so that when the ground freezes, you can remove the covering. You can also plant tulips below the suggested depth (10-12) or put some daffodils in with them, which will keep critters away.

Can I plant in containers in October? Yes, but make sure you protect the containers as much as possible. Roots in containers will be more exposed to the cold than if they were in the ground. Use containers that are a minimum of 10-12 inches deep to plant bulbs in pots, and for a fuller display, plant bulbs closer together than you would if they were planted in the ground. To protect your containers, you can either place them in an unheated garage or shed where the temperature range is between 35-45°F, or you can bury the containers in the ground up to their rims for the winter. If you have large containers (at least 18 inches in diameter) that contain hardy perennials, you can insulate them and leave them outside for the winter. Insulation can be done by wrapping the pots in bubble wrap or burlap, or by placing bags of leaves around the pots.

What if I live in a warm climate with no frost? Gardeners in zones 9-11 can still benefit from planting in October, even if the perks are different. Prioritize planting cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, and peas, as these tend to struggle with germinating in scorching summer temperatures. Many perennials can be set in warm environments as they appreciate not having to deal with summer heat stress. Spring flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils, however, need to go through a cold period (vernalization) before they can bloom. Gardeners in zone 8 and above will have to either place bulbs in a refrigerator for 8-12 weeks before planting them or choose warm climate adapted types.

Benefits of October Planting For Better Gardens

Here's your text rewritten in Markdown format at an 8th-grade reading level: — October planting is the best way to go because it works with nature! Instead of spring planting where the plants have to establish their roots, then sprout flowers and leaves, and then fight against rising temperatures, fall planting makes it easy on the plants. Fall planting means that the plants get to put their energy into growing big, instead of spreading it to grow leaves, flowers, and other above-ground parts, and they ultimately end up with a better tolerance to stress at the end of the season. —

There are also big savings to be made. You can fill your garden with perennials and bulbs that are discounted at garden centers in the fall by 30-50% compared to spring prices to clear out their inventory. You also completely dodge the spring rush as garden centers are busy and have been picked over. When you shop in the fall you can take advantage of a complete inventory and staff who have the time to answer questions. Plus, you get to enjoy pleasant weather while doing the planting as the cooler temperatures and shorter days make it a lot easier than in the summer.

The Patient Gardener's Reward

Most gardeners buy plants in the spring, but these stressed plants are expensive, and are not as good as the plants you will have from your October Investments. When spring arrives, the plants you invested in will have stronger and bigger blooms. Besides, these plants will establish much faster than your neighbors. Instead of instant gratification, attitude will set up success for the future. When your neighbors eventually will have to start their garden, you will already have plants that have developed roots for several months and are ready to grow out of the ground. This is the secret to October planting.