While others are done gardening for the season, true gardeners stand out in the crowd by continuing to be active. In November, savvy gardeners make strategic decisions that are long-term investments.

The secret is bare-root bargains, soil that’s still workable, and the dormancy period. Stay tuned for the shocking deer resistant plant at #12 that is perfect for those problem areas where nothing else will grow.

The November Window: The Benefits of Late Fall Planting

With November comes a favorable period in the annual gardening cycle. The dormancy of plants has begun with the end of the growing season and in most areas the soil is still pliable. This is the perfect time of year to begin the transplanting and establishment of woody (tree and shrub) plants with minimal stress. Since trees and shrubs are dormant they will not have to concern themselves with the support of leaves or flowers and can concentrate on initiating and establishing roots. By the time spring comes around these dormant plants will have already established robust root systems to support their anticipated vigorous growth.

In November, nurseries clear their inventory and Bare-root plants become available. The quality is the same but the costs are much lower. The plants are sold to you at a Professional-grade quality and the prices are much lower because their is not much demand at the time. Smart gardeners begin to buy their plants and stock their landscapes during November due to the cheaper prices and better quality and save themselves from the spring prices increases and less available choices. It's best to buy during November.

1. Bare Root Fruit Trees – The Orchard Foundation

Between November and early March is bare-root season. That means you can get dormant fruit trees for 50-70% less than the price of potted trees. When creating the planting hole, make it twice as wide as the root spread, but be careful to not go deeper than the root ball. Remember, trees settle after they are planted. Planting too deep is one of the most common mistakes when it comes to fruit tree planting and will kill your trees. For 2-4 hours prior to planting, soak the roots in water so they can fully rehydrate. After backfilling the hole with native soil, spread the roots out, and make a watering basin to hold water. All bare-root trees in the apple, pear, peach, plum, and cherry families will take root well if planted in November. Just be sure to select the right varieties for your chill hours and hardiness zone.

2. Roses – The Bare-Root Beauties

Roses that are planted in November are bare-root when compared to spring container roses. One day before planting, soak the bare-roots in water. Then, dig holes that are 18 inches deep. Build a small mound of soil in the center of the hole and spread the roots over the mound. Place the bud union at ground level for warm climates. For colder climates, position the bud union 2 inches below ground level. Then, remove the mound and back fill the hole. Water the hole very well and for winter protection, mound even more soil around the canes. In early spring when growth starts, remove the mound. Roses that are bare-root are usually less expensive. It is better to have less transplant shock, and planting roses will establish the roots faster.

3. Asparagus Crowns – The Investment for 20 Years

If you want to harvest for the next twenty years, plant your one-year-old crowns now. Make 6-8 inch deep and 12 inch wide trenches, and space them 4-5 feet apart. Spread crowns 18 inches apart in trenches and spread roots like an octopus over a mound of compost. They will need 2-3 inches of soil over the roots, and gradually fill the trenches as the shoots start to emerge next spring. Choose male hybrid varieties like Jersey Knight or Jersey Supreme as they have 30% more spear production than females as they do not use energy on seed production. You will not harvest the first two years, but patient gardeners will reap the benefits of their harvest for decades.

4. Garlic – Final Notice for Planting

If you couldn’t plant in October, you have one last chance in early November. After this, the soil will freeze. Garlic bulbs should be planted 2-3 inches deep, pointed end up, with spacing of 6 inches in 12 inch row spacing. For colder areas where the ground is expected to freeze, place 4-6 inches of straw over the bed after it freezes to prevent the soil from “heaving”. For hardneck garlic, this is a requirement in zone 5 and below, while softneck garlic is better in zone 7 and above. Even if garlic is planted late, it will still produce a full-sized bulb by mid-summer, as the roots develop before going dormant. Your one time purchase yields multiple harvests for next year’s cooking and will provide seed stock for continuous growing.

5. Rhubarb Crowns – The Pie Plant Powerhouse

In planting zones 3 through 8, rhubarb crowns can be planted during November. Planting these perennial plants is long-term as they can be harvested for 15 to 20 years. Also, they need to undergo winter chilling before they start to produce. When planting, dig a hole that is 2 feet wide by 1 foot deep and place the tissue cultures that are rhizome crowns 3 to 4 feet apart as they tend to grow quite large. Ensure that the buds are 1 to 2 inches under the surface of the soil because when crowns are planted shallower, it can weaken the plants and will reduce production. Add plenty of compost to the soil as these plants are heavy feeders. Don't harvest the first year at all, and only take a couple crowns in the second year. After this, you can harvest as much as you like. Good performing varieties are Canada Red and Victoria.

6. Strawberry Plants – Early Berry Benefits

Strawberries should be planted in late fall to get the most time for establishing prior to the start of the growing season. When planting, be sure that the crowns are level with the soil. If the crowns are too deep, they will rot, but if too high the roots will be exposed to freezing. For June-bearing varieties, the recommended spacing for planting is 18-24 inches in rows 3-4 feet apart. For Everbearing and day-neutral varieties, the spacing is 12 inches apart. After the first few hard frosts, apply straw mulch about 3-4 inches deep to help prevent winter heaving. As temperatures warm in the spring, remove mulch gradually. Strawberries planted in November usually have a slightly heavier crop than April transplanted strawberries the first year, and then are significantly heavier than April transplants in the second year.

7. Peonies – Final Opportunity for Autumn Division

You can still plant or divide your peony roots until the final weeks of fall in order to prepare them to go dormant and face winter. Be sure to place the growing eyes of the roots 1 to 2 inches below the surface. Avoid placing them deeper than this or you may risk preventing the roots from blooming for many years, as peony roots are notorious for this problem. Each division requires at least 3 to 5 eyes in order to achieve sufficient flowering after only a few years. Plant peony roots in a location that has full sunlight and good drainage to avoid root rot and have them spread 3 to 4 feet apart. Peonies become perennial plants and bloom every year. Many century-old peony plants still bloom profusely. If you are planning on dividing existing peony plants, you are in luck, as they are currently dormant and will experience minimal stress.

8. Blueberry Bushes – The Acid-Loving Antioxidant

Blueberries should be planted in November so that they can take root before the spring growth period. Blueberries need soil that is 4.5 – 5.5 on the pH scale. If your soil pH is higher than that, you will need to add sulfur and peat moss. When planting, you should dig holes that are double the size of the root balls in width and the same size in depth. The spacing of each bush should be 4 to 6 ft apart depending on what variety they are. Pricing blueberries will be better if you have at least two different varieties for the purpose of cross-pollination. To keep your moisture and soil acidity consistent, mulch should be put on in excess of 4 to 6 inches of pine bark or wood chips. Highbush varieties of blueberries can be planted in zones 4 to 7, while the rabbiteye varieties can go in zones 7 to 9. Blueberries will live for 20 to 30 years and will be at their prime the elder they get.

9. Final Planting Period for Daffodil and Tulip Bulbs

As long as the soil is still workable, spring bulbs can be planted in November. Even in the case of November, there are even some advantages to planting in November. Planting in November may even decrease the risk of fungal problems, as the soil will be cooler at that time and there is also less chance of rodent activity. Following the tip of planting the bulb 3 times its height, plant your tulips at a depth of around 6-8 inches and 6 inches for your daffodils. Planting holes should also have some bone meal added to them to achieve stronger stems as well as enhance the size of the blooms. In zones 6 or warmer, bulb planting can even be done up to mid- November or December. As a rule of thumb, for your soil to be frozen solid, bulbs should be planted at right at that time because they will still need that cold to be exposed to ensure that they can still bloom.

10. Deciduous Hedging Plants – The Living Fence

Boxwood, hornbeam, beech, and privet are all fantastic hedging plants that will establish beautifully when planted in November while they are dormant. As a bonus, bare root whips are significantly cheaper than container grown plants and will establish quicker with less transplant shock. When planting hedges, dig a continuous trench instead of individual holes to loosen the soil down to 18 inches. Depending on the species, hedging plants will need to be spaced 12-18 inches apart for formal hedges and 24-36 inches apart for informal screens. Once the plants are in the ground, thoroughly water them, after that, they should be fine relying on natural precipitation, unless you are in a drought. Hedges planted in November will spend the winter developing a robust root system and will send up lots of top growth come spring. In fact, they often outgrow spring planted hedges by a full year.

11. Ornamental Trees – The Landscape Foundation

Tree types including maples, dogwoods, redbuds, serviceberries, and various other ornamental trees, are able to handle transplanting in November while they are still dormant. Trees that are bare-root and have been balled and burlapped are sold at this time of the year at end-of-season prices. When preparing to transplant the tree, dig a hole that is 2-3 times wider than the root ball and is not deeper. The root flare should be slightly above/level to ground level. After backfilling the hole, remove all wire baskets, twine, and burlap that is on the root ball. After planting the tree, water it weekly until it freezes. You can stake the tree if it is necessary, but the stakes should be removed after one year. Trees that are planted in November will have extensive root systems, and will be able to endure a lot of stress. This will improve their growth rates and increased stress tolerance.

12. Hellebore – Juwelen van de Schaduwtuin

Hellebores are a unique type of perennial because they bloom in the late winter, which makes them extremely useful in shade gardens. November is the ideal month to plant these due to the time it gives the roots to establish themselves before the winter cold arrives. These plants prefer partial to full shade and rich, well-draining soil. Be sure to space them 15-18 inches apart when planting them. Hellebores are extremely resistant to deer because the leaves contain toxins. This makes them a wonderful solution for problem areas where other plants are being eaten by deer. Once the plants are established, they are drought-tolerant, long-lived, and self-seed to form colonies. The varieties of these flowers include Christmas and Lenten rose and they will also produce flowers in shades of white, pink, deep purple, and even some that are near black.

13. Lily Bulbs – Experts In Late Season Bulbs

In most areas, you can purchase and put in lily bulbs until mid November. This is different from spring bulbs, which need to be planted in autumn. From late fall planting, Asiatic, Oriental, and trumpet lilies, all do well. Position bulbs in soil that drains well at a depth of 6 to 8 inches and with a spacing of 8 to 12 inches apart. Lilies, unlike tulips, do not go dormant, so rather than storing them, plant them as soon as you obtain them. For stronger stemmed lilies, add some bone meal to the mix of compost in the planting holes. Lilies that are planted in November tend to blossom the first summer after planting, but they may be slightly delayed in comparison to bulbs that were planted earlier. Also, they develop a better root structure during winter.

14. Perennial Vegetables – The Everlasting Pantry

Jerusalem artichokes, walking onions, and horseradish are vigorous perrenials that transplant very well during the norhtern hemisphere's November dormant period, and provide harvestable crops for many years with minimal maintenance. When planting Jerusalem artichokes, tubers should be placed between 3 and 4 inches deep and between 12 and 18 inches apart. They will spread very quickly, so be sure to give them plenty of space, or contain them! Walking onion bulbils should be set 4 to 6 inches apart, and they will multiply quickly. Horseradish roots are to be spaced 12 to 18 inches apart, and should be planted in deep loose soil. These vegetables are hardy, and will tolerate neglect. They are perfect for planting to broaden a permaculture garden and to provide food crops with a low level of maintenance!

Strategies for Successful Planting in November

To settle the soil and remove air pockets, water thoroughly as you plant. This will ensure there is good contact between the roots and soil. After your first deep watering, you will not need to water again unless there is a drought. The weather will provide all the moisture needed. It is important that you do not over-water (especially during cold weather). Under watering is better than over watering. After the ground begins freezing, spread 2-4 inches of mulch around your plants. This will help to keep the soil temperatures consistent and will help to prevent frost heaving. Make sure there are several inches of space between the mulch and the trunks or crowns to prevent rotting and discourage nesting by rodents.

Mark your planting spots with stakes and waterproof labels. Spring will come and you will forget what you planted, especially with bare-root plants that leave no trace. Take photos of your planting layout and keep a garden journal. Note the varieties, locations, and dates of your plantings. This will help you for years to come when planning future plantings and will help track what succeeds under your specific conditions. Many successful gardeners believe in their planting journals and for good reason, they get more valuable the longer you use them.

November Planting Times based on Growing Zones

Zones 3-5: For these zones, you want to plant at the beginning of November, as the ground will freeze mid-November. Consider planting cold-hardy perennials, roses, and fruit trees. You will want to work quickly when the soil reaches 40°F or below. Zones 6-7: In these zones, you have the most flexibility, often being able to plant up until early December. That means you can still plant bare-root trees. Zones 8-9: For these zones, November is actually the best time of year to plant. Warming soil allows root systems to grow. In these zones, you can often plant all the way to December.

In general, you should try to plant while soil is still workable. As long as you can dig a hole, you can do the planting. Soil can freeze, and therefore can't be worked, but soil can be planted far longer than gardeners think. Even with hard frost, soil still remains workable. This is because soil temperature changes later than the temperature of the air, and soil is workable even after several hard frosts. Look at your local weather forecast and try to complete your planting one week prior to any predicted hard freeze. This will give you the best chance of your soil remaining workable.

Mistakes You Should Avoid When Planting in November

One of the biggest mistakes when planting trees and shrubs is planting them too deep, and this is also one of the most common causes for the death of newly planted trees and shrubs. The root flare should be at or just above the soil line. If you are unsure, it is better to plant higher than lower, as the soil will naturally settle over time. Another big mistake is not breaking apart the roots of pot bound plants. This is also the case for dormant container plants, as the roots of the plant need to be loosened prior to the plant being transplanted. Take off the outer layers of the root ball with either your fingers or a knife to promote root growth in all directions as opposed to just continuing to circle.

Use native soil when planting trees and shrubs instead of rich soil or compost. If soil is amended, it can create a container effect, where roots will only stay in the amended area, causing stunted growth in the plant. Amendments should only be used for perennials and vegetables. Don't stake trees unless you really have to. If you do stake, use flexible ties and remove them after one year. When trees are allowed to sway in the wind they can develop much stronger trunks, and staked trees will end up having much weaker trunks. Don't fertilize when planting either. Dormant plants won't be able to utilize any of the nutrients and the fertilizer can actually harm the roots. Once there is active growth in the plant, fertilizer can be added.

Safeguarding November Plantings During Winter

To stop rodents from nesting in your winter mulch, please wait until after the ground has frozen to apply the mulch. Use 4-6 inches of shredded bark, straw, or leaves for your bulb beds and around your perennials. For your newly planted trees and shrubs, make mulch rings of 3-4 feet in diameter. Remember to keep the mulch 4-6 inches from the trunks to avoid rot and pest problems. The mulch also helps avoid frost heaving and maintains consistent soil temperatures. Remember to stop warmth, you want your soil frozen until spring.

In severe weather conditions, young evergreens and broadleaf evergreens can be protected with windbreaks or anti-desiccant sprays. Foliage losing moisture from winter sun and wind will result in dieback before the roots can replace the moisture. Brown dieback will occur as a result of root damage from the freezing temperatures. Burlap screens on the windward side protect plants from being completely engulfed by the burlap protective layer. For grafted plants such as fruit trees and roses, soil or mulch mounds above the graft union for protection in zone 6 and colder. To protect young trees from sunscald and rodent damage, wrap plastic guards or tree wrap around tree trunks and remove them each spring to avoid girdling.

November Planting Soil Preparation

Despite plant dormancy, thorough soil amendments are important to success. Mix compost with perennial beds prior to spring planting. Fall-applied compost will decompose over the winter, getting incorporated by spring. For tree and shrub amendments, it's more about getting planting depth and width right. Remove soil from the bottom of the planting hole to allow for drainage and stop winter root rot by preventing water from pooling around the base of the plants.

Consider testing your soil's pH levels before planting blueberries or other plants. If your soil is too acidic, then you will have to establish a balanced pH to avoid shocking plants and other negative impacts on plant health. Testing soil pH is best done in the fall so there are several months for amendments to take effect. If your soil test tells you to use lime or sulfur to raise or lower your soil pH, do it as soon as possible. Good winter drainage is essential. More plants die from being waterlogged than from frost or snow. Winter drainage is even more important! If your soil is clay-based and particularly heavy, make raised beds or choose plants that tolerate winter soil better. Don’t fight the soil conditions!

Frequently Asked Questions

Is November too late to plant? Not at all! November is actually ideal for many plants. As long as you are planting dormant material and the soil is workable, November planting can be better than spring planting. The key is matching the type of plant to the timing. For example, bare-root fruit trees, roses, and other decididuous plants do better with November plantings. If you are in zone 6 or warmer, you even have the flexibility to successfully plant into December. It is only too late to plant when the ground is frozen solid and you cannot physically dig.

Should I water after planting if winter is coming? Yes, you should water your plants after planting them and regardless of the season, the first watering is critical for settling the soil, eliminating air pockets and making sure that there is root-to-soil contact. After the deep watering, precipitation should take care of the watering unless it is a drought. Many people assume that winter is a good time to not water their plants, however, it if the soil is dry and workable, continue to water until the ground freezes. Once the ground is frozen, do not water anymore.

Is planting in containers in November an option? This is tricky and depends on what you're planting and your local weather. You can plant hardy bulbs, and for these, a deep container is fine, but make sure the container is protected from freeze-thaw cycles by burying it in the ground or moving it to an unheated garage. Most perennials and woody plants will have a difficult time surviving winter in above-ground containers because winter can be tough on the roots with how exposed they are, so winter temperatures can be extreme. November is a time when planting in containers will be more challenging, so if you do, make sure to choose an extremely large container (at least 20 inches), wrap the container in a lot of insulation, and choose plants that are extremely cold-hardy and are rated two zones colder than your planting region.

What happens if the ground freezes before you finish planting? If the ground freezes and you have plants still to be planted, there are still something you can do, such as, dig a trench and heel them into the protected area. Lay the plants at an angle and cover the roots with soil and mulch. They will survive the winter and can be buried in the spring. If you have bare-root plants, you can keep them cool (35-40°F) and wrapped in damp newspaper or peat moss. Potted plants can be put in an unheated garage or shed to protect them for the winter.

Should I fertilize my November plantings? No. For fall plantings, skip fertilizer completely. The plants are dormant so they cannot take in or utilize any nutrients. Additional nutrients can also damage the roots or encourage early growth that can be killed by frost. The only exception to this is bone meal for bulbs and perennials. Bone meal is safe because it has slow-releasing phosphorus which aids in developing roots without pushing the plant to grow. For November plantings, you're best off saving nitrogen fertilizers for the spring when the plants have broken dormancy and can use the nutrients. Your November plantings will establish based on good soil, proper depth, and adequate moisture, not fertilizer.

Do bare-root plants survive the same as container plants? When planted during dormancy, bare-root plants actually outperform container stock. They are also cheaper, establish quicker (because root circling is not an issue), and they adjust to the soil more quickly. The trick is to plant them while they are still fully dormant; early to mid-November is optimal. Soak the roots for several hours prior to planting to ensure the roots are properly hydrated. Once planted, bare-root plants are able to develop their roots over the winter. Often, bare-root plants will grow more vigorously in the spring compared to their container counterparts. The cost savings are also incredible: bare-root plants cost 50-70% less than container plants!

Frost will make soil dense and hard meaning soil can be workable. Try to dig a test hole with a shovel, soil that is workable will have crumbling soil and an easy penetration of the shovel. If the soil is muddy, waterlogged, or frozen, just wait to dig. Most ideal conditions for planting are umod soil minus water, dense soil that is not frozen. If the area is dry before planting, water the area a day before planting to make digging easier. Mild Fall seasons allow for many areas of the grounded soil to be workable well into December and November. Before planting, check the extended weather forecast to ensure there are no predicted hard freezes that will cause the soil to be dense and locked for a long period of time. Fall seasons with workable soil last for about 5 weeks from November to December.

Why Planting in November is a Smart Move for Gardening

November planting takes advantage of seasonal dormancy and natural cycles. With November planting, plants won't be stressed by heat. They can focus solely on establishing roots. You'll be working with nature's cycles. There are financial benefits to November planting because end-of-season clearances and bare-root offerings give the same quality plants for 40-70% less. November planting also offers the opportunity to receive more help at garden centers because staff are less busy. During the November planting rush, everyone else will be spring planting to fight over inventory that has been picked-over at higher prices.

The workload is also more balanced across the seasons. If you plant in November, you'll have some calming outdoor work to do in the fall instead of rushing to do everything in spring. Working in the fall will be better because you will be doing less exhausting labor instead of working in the spring when it is physically harder to do labor. You'll start spring with big plantings done which will give you more time to focus on annuals, veggies, and other seasonal work. This approach leads to better outcomes with less stress and is the epitome of smart gardening.

The Dormant Season Advantage

Instead of storing your tools away for the winter like most gardeners, you’ll be making moves that will benefit you for decades to come. Those bare-root fruit trees you paid $25 for each? Come spring time, shoppers will pay $75 for container trees with smaller root systems and more stressful transplants. Your November-planted roses will develop extensive roots while spring-planted roses will struggle to root and then also to bloom. The asparagus crowns, rhubarb, and berry bushes you’re planting now will begin their decades-long production cycles and will have the most time to become established. That’s the November advantage—smart work while everyone else is waiting for spring!