I see a Tree Swallow flying low over the yard, a hint of blue and a quick chirp as it checks an old nesting box, and I remember how some birds prefer to live in different neighborhoods. In this blog I will include some different birds, like the Eastern Bluebird, Purple Martin, House Wren, and many more, and provide a short guide on what birdhouse style each bird likes best.

When providing recommendations, I base everything on real nesting data, not marketing fluff. Entrances, interiors, height, depth, and all the habitat info is available to you based on real nesting data, not copy.

1) Eastern Bluebird — Peterson-style single-compartment Bluebird House

I enjoy watching male bluebirds as they hover low over a fencepost, bright breast showing as he inspects the cavity like a tiny, earnest house-hunter. The soft chitter and quick wingbeats tell you they favor open areas bordered by perches.

Nesting studies show bluebirds like a 1.5-inch entrance, 5–6 inches wide inside, and 6–8 inches deep. Mount boxes 4–6 ft high within clear view in open fields, pastures, or large yards that have scattered trees and perches nearby.

I recommend a Peterson-style, single-compartment box with a sloping roof and predator guard over the entrance. Pros: straightforward interior size, good ventilation, and they’re easy to clean. Avoid painted interiors and make the floor as rough as possible for nest grip.

To provide ample ventilation, you can position the box so that it will face east or southeast, to help it avoid afternoon heat, and also so it will look over short grass or a maintained lawn where the parents can easily spot insects. It is also good to check the box during the nestling period to make sure that the box is clean, and if the mesh is away from the box, you can place it on a post with a baffle if raccoons or snakes are common.

2) Tree Swallow — 1.5″ entrance cedar nest box

“Tree swallow!” I said excitedly while pointing at the blue-green bird that just flew over the pond. I noted its distinctive thin chitter sound, and I jumped when I saw two of them fluttering near the hole.

Previous studies show that the ideal nesting height for tree swallows is between 5–15 feet above ground, and the host box is preferably located in open fields or habitats near bodies of water. The box also includes an entrance hole that is 1.5 inches in diameter along with a smooth inner wall that is about 4 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 6-8 inches deep. Additionally, it is recommended that tree swallow nesting boxes have mild drainage and ventilation.

\I suggest a simple cedar birdhouse that has a 1.5 inch diameter entrance hole, and a side panel that can be opened for cleaning. Cedar wood has high resistance to rotting, however, it is more expensive than other woods, and therefore must be mounted more securely.

The host box should be mounted at a height of 10 feet or more, with a predator guard on the pole below. There should be no trees within 20 feet to reduce prowling on the box to keep it more bird friendly, and nesting boxes should b placed near perches for hunting birds.

3) Purple Martin — Langstroth-style multi-compartment gourd house

When the dusk purple martins flew circling low and flapping on wings over the grassy area I knew they would soon settle on the clubhouse roof to communicate and their voices around the club were a reminder of summer joy returned.

To keep predator guards on and over open water or lawn bird nesting boxes should be mounted between 10-20 feet high with compartments that have depths of 6-7 inches along with 5 x 5 inch cutouts for easy bird access.

I suggest getting a gourd house with removable compartments Langstroth style. It makes for easier cleaning and it meets specification for size compartments. Multiple pairs can nest close together too. But beware, martin’s prefer having a colony setup within themselves and will ignore single boxes. You will also have to take care of house wren’s and sparrows.

Place it on a sturdy pole that has a good open space around it and is far from trees, with a simple pulley to make for easier lowering. When checking nests mid-season, (which I recommend you do) take out any of the nests that could be invasive. Finally, leave the gourd house up during fall to signal territory for next year. simple pulley for lowering

4) House Wren — 1.25″ entry rough-sawn wooden wren box

I once watched a pair of house wrens quickly placed a soft nest and an odd feather, of which I assume they collected from a bird, that they quickly grabbed like a leaf.

Data on house wrens shows that they prefer nests placed at edges of open yards and brushy tangles. They also enjoy shafts of 5-10 feet above the ground in the rough area of shrubs and boxes.

I advise you go with a rough sawn cedar box with the described specifications. It’s durable and it provides a natural wood texture to use. Mounting it on a post will aid in providing added safety from predators. rough-sawn cedar wren box

When you decide to place the box, do so 6-8 feet up a post or a thin tree trunk, where it will be facing a quiet area of shrub cover. Make sure to leave 10-15 feet of the area in low brush or tangles. This will help the wren in escaping.

5) Black-capped Chickadee — 1 1/8″ entry maple nest box with predator baffle

I saw a chickadee fly through a little hole with her wings moving like a little flag, and then she stopped on the porch roof to call. In my yard, they like snug little holes where the warmth is and where cats can’t get to them.

Chickadee nesting studies show they like to use holes that are 1 1/8 inches, with an inside area that is 4-5 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. The nests should be placed 6-15 feet high in an area that is mixed with woods or shrubs. They prefer more sheltered areas, close to spots where they can perch and a reliable source of caterpillars is available.

I suggest that you use a solid maple box with an entrance hole that is 1 1/8 inches and has a simple predator baffle below the entrance hole. Maple is a good wood because it resists rot and holds insulation well, and the baffle will decrease access from raccoons and squirrels. One thing to note is that the baffles will need to have the correct spacing for the poles, and they can look bulky on smaller trees.

For the best results, place the box heading east or southeast so it can get the morning sun and avoid the wind. Mount it in a way that you’ll be able to check it from a distance and leave a 25-50 foot area of low brush so the birds can forage.

6) Barn Swallow — open-cup mudnest shelf mounted under eaves

I see barn swallows fly across the barn, their tails flicking as they collect mud. They do not use round boxes. They make mud nests, and place them on flat surfaces that are under the eaves and bridges, and they do this in colonies.

Nesting studies show that barn swallows need a flat ledge that is about 3-5 inches deep and has a shallow lip, and that the ledge cannot be an enclosed cavity. Barn swallows should be mounted inside the nests at a height of 6-20 feet in places that have open farmland, and under long eaves where there are a lot of insects and where the predators are hiding.

I suggest you build a basic mud-nest shelf kit. It consists of a small shelf made of a rough concrete or wooden surface so that the swallows can attach mud to one side and form a nest. The good thing about this is that it mimics real nesting locations and encourages swallows to start nesting. Just remember that you should have mud nearby and droppings underneath the shelf are to be expected.

Shelves should be placed under wide, sheltered eaves next to where there is an open path for flying insects. It should also be kept away from bright lights. Seasonal access should be left so that nests can be inspected, and nesting materials can be removed in the fall so that the shelf can be cleaned in the late fall.

7) Violet-green Swallow — 1.5″ deep small-box with side ventilation

I enjoy watching violet-green swallows quarter the blue sky and then suddenly drop into a tight cavity in a dead snag. Their wings are a brilliant, shimmering green and violet. They prefer homes that are tight and shallow, where they can get a lot of food from their parents without them having to come in and out too often.

Studies have shown that when nesting, they prefer boxes that have entrances about 1.5 inches in diameter, and shallow boxes about 1.5 inches deep, with side or back ventilation. Nesting boxes should be placed on poles, trees or cliffs in open water or ranchland at a height of 10 to 20 feet. They prefer sites that are grouped together and also natural open spaces.

Again, my recommendation is to get a small wooden box with a diameter of 1.5 inches (about the same size as the entrance hole), a shallow (1.5 inch) interior, and side vents at the top. The advantages are that it will be absolutely perfect for swallows in shape, size and cooling needs and the box will also mimic natural crevices. The only disadvantage to having a shallow box is that rain may enter it if it is not properly roofed.

Boxes should be placed so that the entrance is facing an open flight path, at a height of 10 to 20 feet, and there should be a few inches of dead snag or surveying perch nearby. During nesting season, it is best to observe the box from a distance to avoid disturbing the swallows.

8) Carolina Wren — recessed 1.25″ entry box with top-hinged cleanout

I observed the Carolina Wren as it scolded a passing cat and slipped its tail into a narrow crack underneath. It brightened up the area by dancing around, grabbing some twigs, and making sharp calls as it checked the area and grabbed more nesting material.

Research on nesting preferences has shown that Carolina Wrens tend to like small nesting cavities that are about 1.25 inches wide, 4–5 inches tall, and have a height of 6–8 inches. It is best to mount the boxes 4–10 feet high in shrubs, as they are best in areas that are more sheltered.

I suggest a wooden box that has a recessed entry that is 1.25 inches wide, and a clean-out hatch that is top-hinged. The box will be protected from the weather better, and keeping checking through the top to close. The recessed entry will also keep the cowbirds away. As an aside, cover the outside in a muted color (and do not varnish the interior) as wrens prefer it natural.

Place the box so that it faces shrubs or vines. Within your covered area, leave a small gap under eaves to help keep access covered. I’ve done the same at the boxes to avoid disturbing nesting activity as spring arrived.

9) Prothonotary Warbler — flooded-wood style box for swampy habitats

Earlier in the spring, I spotted flashes of gold and orange slipping into a willow and over calm water. I then heard the faintest of chips which indicated that she had found a suitable nesting cavity. For flooded forests Prothonotary Warblers are extremely active at their cavities, especially where their water is less than slowly flowing.

Nest boxes are set up so as to accommodate a 1 1/8 inch entrance, with a nesting cavity of approximately 4×4 inches and 6–8 inches deep, and are mounted 3–10 feet above standing water or within a few feet of the bank. They pick sites with open cavities that are located in the swampy parts of wooded wetlands, as opposed to those that are heavily treed in the upland areas.

For these boxes, I suggest the flooded-wood type (cedar or cypress) with predator-resistant baffle options and the 1 1/8 inch entrance. These boxes are good because they are built to last in wet conditions and replicate former nesting sites. However, there is a criterion that they have to be placed in or very close to the water, as dry areas will not be able to attract the fowl.

Mount boxes on a post in the water or on a tree overhanging the swamp, angled slightly to shed rain. From a canoe, check and clean after the nesting season, pole, and avoid disturbances during egg laying and early broods.

10) Northern Flicker — 3″ deep large-entrance flicker box with durable siding

I watched a male flicker hammer at a weathered post, dust and feathers flying, then slip into a shallow cavity with a loud, sharp call. The motion felt impatient and precise — they want roomy, dry holes they can excavate or enlarge.

Nesting records show flickers prefer a wide entrance (about 2.75–3.5 inches), shallow floor depth near 3 inches, and cavities open to taller trees or posts 6–20 feet high. They favor open woods, edges, and yards with short turf for foraging. Durable siding helps resist rot where repeated excavations occur.

I suggest a solid flicker box made with 3″ depth and a 3.25″ wide entrance with exterior-grade plywood or cedar and reinforced entrances to minimize wing wear. Pros: will meet estimated preferences and last. Cons: flickers may still peck to enlarge the hole or settle for natural cavities. reinforced entrance to reduce wing wear

The box should be mounted on a snag, post, or trunk, 8-15 feet up and facing away from the prevailing winds. Leave some nearby open foraging ground and avoid placing it too close with other small nest boxes. Mount on a snag, post, or trunk 8–15 feet up

11) Eastern Screech-Owl — 6-8″ diameter round-entrance owl box with roof overhang

One spring night, I heard soft trilling and discovered a small grey owl that had slipped into a hollow oak. The bird hovered for a moment and then vanished into the shadows, leaving only the whisper of wings and the faint smell of moss.

Based on nesting records, eastern screech-owls will take boxes with round entrances of about 6-8 inches and prefer cavities that are 10-12 inches deep and 8-10 inches wide. Boxed should be placed 8-20 ft high in wooded edges of parks or suburban yards with mature trees.

I recommend a cedar owl box with 6-8” openings and a sizeable roof overhang that will keep rain out. Cedar also better regulated box’s temperature, but be sure to check for predators at the base and avoid perches that aid raccoon or squirrel access.

The box should be placed facing a stand of trees that have open flight space and a nearby perch. Secure the box to a trunk or sturdy post and check the box annually from a distance to avoid disturbing the breeders.

12) Purple Finch — 1.5″ entrance thick-walled pine house placed mid-canopy

I observed a Purple Finch dart between the maple leaves. I saw a quick glimpse of raspberry coloring on the finch’s breast. The Purple Finch seemed to hesitate at a hole in an old pine tree. Purple Finches are very quick in their movements and prefer to stay hidden within the tree’s cover and snuggly cavity to settle.

Nest data indicate that Purple Finches adopt cavities with 1.5” diameter entrances. They prefer cavities that are approximately 4-5 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. They select mid canopy levels of 8-20 feet. Mixed woods or wooded yards have thick walls that help buffer temperature swings and predators.

I suggest a thick walled pine box with a 1.5” drilled entrance. The floor should be approximately 4.5 inches square and 7 inches deep. Pine is durable and stays cool. Pros: good insulation and natural appearance. Cons: needs a predator guard and cleaning to avoid mite infestations.

For placement, mount the box on a trunk or sturdy branch that is 10-15 feet high. The opening should be positioned away from the prevailing winds with foliage nearby to provide cover. Direct the entrance toward partial shade and check after mid fall for bird activity.

13) Tufted Titmouse — 1.25″ entry box with rough interior for climbing

I observed a titmouse at the oak tree hovering and cocking its head. Then it entered a small cavity while making a soft chitter. The bird pushed past flakes of bark and disappeared, leaving me to listen for sounds of nesting.

Nest data show that tufted titmice use cavities with 1.25” diameter entrances, an interior floor of approximately 4×4 inches, and a depth of 8-10 inches. They prefer nests that are positioned 6-15 feet high in wooded yards/edges. They prefer rough inner walls or natural fibrous linings. This helps the chicks climb.

My recommendation is a simple wooden box with a 1.25” hole. The interior surface should be rough or have glued sisal strips. Pros: it will help meet their preference and will be easy to clean. Caveat: if not cleaned yearly, the rough surface can trap mites.

Position the box so that it faces east or southeast to get the morning sun and avoid the wind. You can mount them in trees or poles close to shrubs for quick cover. Make sure you check the nest timing so you can avoid disturbing the birds when they are laying eggs.

14) Eastern Phoebe — open-front shelf box under porch or bridge rafters

I have seen a Phoebe on the edge of the porch. As she sat there, I noticed that her wings were moving rapidly, and then, all of a sudden, she went into a small opening beneath the porch. I noticed that there was a nest with mud and hair lining the opening of the nest, and she was covering it. The bird prefers to do this rather than using her limbs to reach into a hole or cavity that is very deep and round.

Nesting information: they prefer locations where the entrance is blocked or only partially open by a two to three inch (2-3) tall opening; where the nest is being made, they prefers a space that is about five to six (5-6) inches wide and three to four (3–4) inches deep. The box needs to be mounted three to twenty (3-20) inches above the ground in a shaded area that is also sheltered close to a body of water or near an open lawn. They are found in places like the front ledges of the bottom eaves of the porch or even the bottom of the bridge where the roof is located above the bridge.

A simple opening shelf-type birdhouse design or front platform with backboard is great. Pros: allows for easy maintenance, provides places for birds to enter without having to squeeze. Cons: having an open front design can allow predators or even extreme weather to disturb and change the locations where the bird nest are placed.

A design tip is to put the shelf type nest or birdhouses under roofline or bridge beams that are about 6 to 12 inches above the house and then facing the other way to the prevailing wind also. It is suggested to put a nest building material type in the bottom of the house to prompt them to build a nest.

How Habitat Shapes Nest Choices

When I observe birds, I can usually see that the telephone poles become huge for the bluebirds and the crevices are very tight for the wrens and the birds use the habitat that is based on what trees, plants, and structures they have. This greatly influences the size of the opening they have, the height of their nest, and the type of box that will be used.

Changing Seasons and Shelter Needs

The chickadee enters the cavity it calls home. it’s spring and it’s raining as well as the chickadee. It’s beak is wet from collecting bugs. According to my research, chickadees like 1 1/8 inches for the entrance, and for the internal depth, they like 4 – 6 inches as well as a mounting hight of 6 – 15 feet in a mixed wood or backyard grove.

For the nesting season, I recommend the following box: Wood box with dimensions 6″x6″x8″ with a 1 1/8 hole, vents at the top, and predator baffle features. They are all suitable for nesting. Be careful not to include a metal or painted inside as it will create a heat trap.

To minimize competition, mount the box on the trunk of a tree, facing north or east, 8-12 feet high. Make sure the box is located near some deciduous trees and 10-20 feet from bird feeders.

Neighborhoods: Suburb, Forest, or Prairie

I once spotted a bluebird, hunting grasshoppers, perched on a fence post right above a large prairie. For eastern bluebirds, the nesting requirements are for the entrance hole to be 1 1/2 inches, and the floor dimensions to be 5-6 inches, and the box has to be placed at a height of 4-6 feet in an open grassy place that has some scattered perches.

For that reason, I suggest this box: open-porch style box with dimensions 12x6x8, there should be a 1 1/2 inch hole, a predator guard, and an optional drainage floor. It is easy to clean, and matches the cavity sizes.

To make sure the area has little to no wren or sparrow takeovers, place the box away from areas containing dense shrubberies. To help with the placement, try mounting the box on a post, or a pole that is positioned so that it is around 4-6 feet high and is located in the center of a pasture or lawn. Add a perch that is then 20-30 feet away so that it can serve as a hunting perch along with

Small Encounters: Reading the Signs of Successful Nesting

A little at dawn, I observed a tiny sparrow enter a weathered box. I watched as it perch a short distance away to sing a call. Try to look for some small fecal droppings, and feathers from the box. If you see them, the box likely has a healthy and active nest.

Feather Traces and Calling Cards

I generally see a collection of feathers at the entrance of a box. These feathers imply that the nest has been lined or insulated, or both. House sparrows and Chickadees use small feathers, and Starlings use larger contour feathers. If you see fresh, moist plant matter, it means the feathers and plant matter are from recent activity. If the feather are old and bleached, the seed hulls are from past use.

Take a look at the droppings on the box perch, and the ones that are found under it. Nestlings and adults both produce small, dark droppings that have white tips. If there is massive build up of feces under the box over more than a few days, it typically points to an occupied nest. Try to avoid moving or touching the materials, as doing so may cause abandonment.

Behavior Clues in the Garden

Between sunrise and mid-morning I like to listen out for shuttling flights to the box. When nestlings are being fed by parents, the parents perform quick, short intervals of flight. When the parents are not actively feeding, the visits tend to be longer and more spaced out. Nesting boxes should be observed from a distance, as they may or may not have an active nest. If there is a pause, or complete silence when you are nearby, it could imply there is an active nest.

If you see very territorial calls, or aggressive chases around the area, nesting is almost certain. If there are predators (like jay and squirrels) that circle the nesting box, the parents will bury the nestlings and increase alarm calls about the situation. For sparrows and chickadees nest boxes should be placed from 5-10 ft high, and the entrance should be placed facing away from the prevailing winds. Some small vegetation should be placed around 3-6 ft away from the nesting box but the branches should be at least 18 inches away from the nesting box entrance to deter predators.